OK, I’ve extracted the battery and tray, and looked all around the
battery area, but somehow I can’t seem to see (from overhead at least)
the damage to the wiring that the mechanic who looked at this car before
reported.  I looked at the work order and it also says something about
"connection problem between pin 59 of connector 1 and pin 2 of the
ALDC."  I assume ALDC is the OBD-II connector, but what does that have
to do with the no-start condition?

A little background:  the car’s climate control blower motor, the gauge
cluster, AND the starter operate intermittently or not at all.  It got
so bad that the car flat out stopped starting at all, and right before
that the cluster wouldn’t register anything but speed.  SECURITY appears
when the key is turned on, but that never seemed to affect the
startability of the car at all, and it never did a fuel shutoff or
anything like the Passlock II was set off.  The local dealer replaced
the ignition cylinder and programmed it for the car, but that wasn’t
even the problem.  The mechanic that told my fiancee it was because of
wires being corroded by battery acid got the thing working just fine,
except for codes for the EGR valve pintle position and the transmission
TCC performance appearing on an OBD-II scan.

I have wiring diagrams but I am still at a loss.  I just DON’T SEE ANY
DAMAGE.  Is there somewhere I’m not looking or something I might have
missed?  This doesn’t make ANY sense.

The car is back like it was before that mechanic looked it over–no
start, SECURITY, oh yeah…and the P/R/N/D/whatever fades to black after
about eight seconds of turning the power on in the car, too.

Help?

This morning on my way to work, my ABS light came on – the brakes
worked normally, no problem right?  (I’m not a big fan of ABS anyway).
When I got to work though, I noticed that my back passenger-side brakes
were smoking and smelly — that unmistakable "burning brake smell".  I
don’t understand how the two could be related.  The normal Brake light
did not come on.  The aforementioned rear brake pads are only 4 or 5
months old.

It’s a 98 Blazer w/ 4-wheel disk brakes.

Anyone have any ideas as to what might have happened?

thanks in advance,
Aaron

Where can I find fuel line supply routing info for a 96 2.2 L 4
cylinder from the fuel filter up to the motor. I need to replace the
line on an s10

Anyone know what may be the problem?

help much appreciated since the service center can not duplicate the
condition but it does it 80%l the time now and I find that they can
not duplicate the problem puzzling.

My Emergency-Parking Brake cable came out of the reaer brake drum a
while back.

Other than not working, of course, the little idiot light for the
parking brake is on all the time, UNLESS I keep the duct tape on it, as
I have been doing, otherwise the little pedal for it hangs down.

Now, this morning, other than the little idiot light, JUST BELOW the
little light, another little idiot lite came on and won’t go off, this
is saying   "ANTILOCK", no quotations of course, and it doesn’t really
say or talk anything to me.

Need to get the car inspected soon, know I need to have the parking
brake fixed, right?,

BUT I WAS wondering, why the  ANTILOCK idiot light would come on now,
just below the big  PARKING BRAKE ON idiot light on the middle right
side of my dashboard….???

Thanks

Truck runs great, but recently when the engine comes off the enriching
circuit. At idle it slowly drops idle speed and stalls. It is not
plugs, cap, rotor, TBI is new last year. No codes are coming up. I have

turned up the idle screw in the base plate of the TBI, which does not
seem to help, it just goes back to low idle and stalling again, is the
a way to get that back to the original factory setting?  I am presuming

that screws up the main computer. I open to suggestions, put will start

with replacing Throttle Position Sensor, tighten the 3 screws on the
TBI, check for vacuum leaks. Should I be looking at the IAC sensor,
like I said I am not getting any codes.  I only have this problem when
sitting at idle for a couple of minutes, then it starts to drop slowly
then stall. Have checked for vacuum leaks and TBI gasket. Can you have
a bad Idle Sensor will out have a code. Is there any other sensors that
could cause this problem?

I took my 2002 BUICK to the local JiffyLube
for an oil/filter change.

After less than 5 minutes under the hood,
the guy came back with a very dirty
"cabin air filter".   ( I had them replace it )

I’m somewhat surprised….
I’ve looked all over the engine compartment,
and I can’t find access to the filter.

The BUICK owners manual describes changing the filter,
but it must be written in UAW code….
I can’t make sense of the directions.

I’d like to do it myself next time.
Any hints on where to start ?

<rj>

<> wrote in message news:1160765573_9703@sp6iad.superfeed.net…
> The Untold Truth, Every American & Citizen Of The World Must Read This!

Who gives a crap here?  This is not a forum for politics.

Is there any other motors that use the same heads as the 3100-3.1 liter
Olds? 3.8liter? 2.8liter? Any Help?? Thanks Craig

Hey guys, have a 93 buick skylark custom with a 3.3 litre. Replaced the
starter last night. The starter seems to work fine (AutoZone Duralast
Replacement). My problem is when the starter engages the flywheel it
doesn’t disengage, yes it makes a awful sound. I assumed that maybe the
shims they included were needed, they gave me three. Tried using one,
two then three all with the same results. Yes a four hour starter job.
I’m no certified mechanic, but I have replaced a few starters in my
time (in short I have owned alot of cars that most people would junk).
The starter just won’t disengage from the flywheel. So my questions
are, is my starter defective? Do I need more shims? Or, is there a more
common solution that I am missing?
Need to get this care back on the road quickly, any help here would be
greatly appreciated, In advance thanks to you all.

~Chuck