I have been chasing codes and repairing the components that would
trigger a code.

The only code (other that 12) left is…
Problem: Code 83 – TCC PWN Solenoid Circuit Fault
              Rough idle in neutral, almost dies when put into gear.
Excessive vibration

There is no terminal F wire present at the ALDL so I couldn’t check
for voltage there.

I checked the fuse for "Gages" and I see voltage across both
terminals with a DMM.

I checked the tan/black wire at the 20 pin connector at the passenger
side of the transmission and there was no voltage with the key in the
on position. There is supposed to be lettered markings on the male or
female end of the plug but I couldn’t see any indication of letters
molded into either side of the plug. I also cleaned the plug with
contact cleaner.

I went to check for 12 volts across the brake switch which is
described in a TCC test procedure. The procedure references one of two
possible brake switches, an upper switch with a vacuum hose and two
wires, or, according to the document, there is a lower switch with
four wires. The document is ambiguous as to whether one or both of
these systems are present on the van.

As I am poking around trying to find these components, (which I still
have to find) I put my hand on a solenoid that actuates a plunger that
has a cable attached to the end and two wires attached to the
solenoid, which is attached to the steering column. The solenoid gets
so hot when the key is "ON" that I could not leave my finger on the
solenoid for a half of one second before it burned my finger! It is
located on the steering column and actuates when the brake pedal is
depressed a small amount.

I am sure that this is a problem because any solenoid that gets that
hot has a problem. I do not know the name of this component to get a
replacement, so…

Question #1 – What is the name of this component so I can tell the
parts store the correct name for them to look it up on their computer
database?

Question #2 – What brake connections do I need to check for voltage
beyond the one listed above. I initially could not find a typical
brake switch which would be a plunger with two wires connected and
attached to the brake pedal directly. I can see where the typical
mounts for this type of switch would be located, but nothing is in the
mount.

Question #3 – Are there other circuits that need to be tested in the
TCC circuits.

I have asked this question on other forums, with no responses. I hope
that one of the readers of this post can assist me.

Thanks, James

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i have a chevy corsica with power steering. i am having problem with
steering that it very hard (stuck, impossible) on turning right or
left.so basically can steer only straight.

it has 140 k miles on it.

please help this novice,

thanks
lucy.

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I just took out my starter and reconnected my battery because my
windows were down and I dont get any power….does the starter need to
be in and wired up for there to be power?  im hopin i didnt screw
something else up lol..Thanks!

(1984 cutlass supreme)

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"1984CutlassSupreme" wrote:
>maybe i’ll just bring it to one of those Ice Cold A/C places to
>diagnose it once i sort the starter issue out, lol.  I appreciate all
>the feedback and advice.

Hey it is your nickle, they will charge you 100 bucks or more to tell
you need a new compressor, then stick you again for price of
compressor. You need to be shopping around for best price to get it
replacednot whether it is bad or not. It is 21 years old and it is a
miracle that it lasted this long and they typically last a much
shorter time.

’94 S10 Blazer Automatic 4.3L 130,000 miles.  Since we have had the vehicle
two years ago, once in a while when you start the vehicle for the first time
of the day, it would when going forward, making a very loud humming noise
(that got louder as the RPM goes higher) and during the time it made this
humming noise, the vehicle had very little power and it acted like it didn’t
want to shift.  After you got going for about 15 seconds or so (got up to
about 30mph) it would quit that and not do it again until another random
morning.  Now it has gotten worse after two years.  Now you can pretty much
expect it every morning to do this and now if you sit for extended periods
of time or shift it to park and sit a while, then start going again, it will
begin doing the same transmission (or what we suspect) problem again.  The
vehicle is still responsive when this problem occurs as when you goose the
gas pedal quickly, it still responds quickly.  Is it likely the transmission
is going bad?  Checked the transmission fluid the other day, and when hot,
the transmission fluid barely registered on the dipstick.  Put more in, but
the problem is still there.  Can’t seem to find leaks anywhere – at least in
the driveway.

The G body rear sway bar from the sedan does not fit the wagon, when I
do my research via the net. Any idea who does make a rear sway bar for
this mid size RWD wagon?

My 92 Boneville has intermittent service engine light. The code on the
troubleshooting chart is 42 and referenced as a ignition control unit.
The light only comes on when the car is hot and does not conicide with
any performance issues. Any suggestions?

Hi all.  I’m doing a bit of hacking with my car’s audio system, and I
have a few questions.

The short version is:  I’m looking for all information related to
GM’s/Delco’s use of the Class 2 data bus to control CD Changer-Head
Unit interaction.

The long version goes something like this…

I drive a 2004 GMC Canyon, and I’m interested in doing some fun things
with the data that gets passed around the communications bus.  My first
goal is to hook a small computer to the CD Changer interface of the
radio.  With this, I’d like to be able to play MP3s in my car, while
displaying ID3 tag info on the head unit, and controlling the playlist
with the head unit’s buttons.

Now, before too many people get started with alternate solutions, let
me say that the purpose of this project is not necessarily just to be
able to play MP3s in my car, but rather to have fun hacking the serial
bus and doing an interesting project.  So, I’m not into iPods or
pre-boxed auxiliary adapters.

Here’s the data I have so far, in hopes to lure others who are
interested in similar projects to colaborate with me:

To start with, the head unit in my car is a Delphi Delco Electronics,
part no. 15104155.  Just Googling for that part number brings up the
site:
http://www.radiosandmore.com/p rod_detail.asp?pn=10359576
which is a supposedly backward compatible head unit (according to the
spec sheet they publish on that site).

I contacted the dealer at the start of my project, and was able to get
the pinouts for both the main head unit-car connect, and the head
unit-cd changer connection.  If people want those, I’d be happy to post
them here – the dealer didn’t say anything about them being copyright
restricted or anything.  The important parts are that it is a 12-pin
connector, and the only pin in use that is not labeled as an audio
signal is labeled as "Class 2 Serial Data".

So, I searched around the ‘net for a while and finally figured out that
"Class 2" is GM’s implementation of SAE’s J1850, in VPW mode, with part
of SAE’s J2178.  I have obtained copies of each of these specs, but
they are proprietary, and not given away for free, so I’m afraid I
won’t be able to post them here.  In any case, they don’t list anything
about audio device controls, other than the suggested range of
addresses for such devices.

Once I knew which kind of bus they used, I bought myself a VIA LDV100P1
from B&B Electronics.  This little module can convert data from
J1850-VPW to RS-232 and back.  So, I’ve written a small terminal
program, and I’ve been snooping my car’s bus for interesting data.

What I was hoping to find was that the CD player, even though built
into the head unit, was passing information back and forth to the head
unit’s display over the Class 2 bus.  No such luck, unfortunately.  In
fact, the only data I have seen sent to the audio range of addresses is
targetted at the Audible Warnings devices.

My next thoughts center around buying a compatible CD changer to
install, and then snooping the communication on the bus (as data would
absolutely have to be there for an external module).  The only problem
with this strategy is that I have been unable to find a compatible CD
changer.  The closest I’ve come is USASpec’s SCD-G7i, but they say that
there is a software incompatibility with the 2004 Canyon.  I find this
a bit suspect, as the G7i is supposed to work with the 2005 Canyon, as
well as the ’04 and ’05 Colorado, and the head unit I talked about
Googling for above says it’s compatible with all 4 models.  But, it’s
hard to say that the company that developed the instrument is wrong
about it’s capabilities, you know?  ;)  Also, I think I remember
reading somewhere that the 2005 Canyon actually uses a Bose system, not
a Delco.

As any of you have tried will know, my phone calls and emails to places
that should know this information have turned up absolutely nothing.
No one at GM seems to have access to the data I want.  Delphi has given
me two replies: 1. GM should have that data, and 2. their engineers
don’t have enough time to reply to my request.  Helm, Inc., GM’s
official literature distributor, claims to have nothing that details CD
changer communication.  The Chilton’s manuals don’t even touch audio
equipment.  My last resort was contacting PIE and PAC to find out how
they got the documentation they needed to create their auxiliary
adapter modules.  They both replied that they had to reverse engineer
the communication themselves, and could not release the data that they
gathered.

So, that’s most of what I know for now.  Any pointers for other people
to contact about this issue, or other websites to read would be great.
And, if I’ve left out important details, please ask – my data is a bit
spread out and sometimes hard to compile, but it’s probably here.

Thanks,
Bryan

(P.S.  My appologies for the repost to those who are also on
rec.audio.cars.  I had this over there for a few days, but didn’t get a
response, so I thought I would probe interest in this group.)

My Chevrolet Lumina, 4 cyl, will not start.  It cut off when I was driving
it. There was no default code present.  The valves started to keep a lot
of noise before it cut off. I have replaced the ignition coils, crank
shaft sensor, and ignition module.  The fuel pump is working.

                "HELP"

I ran a diagnostic test on my 91 olds and it came up that the Throttle
Position Sensor has low voltage. What happens with the voltage low? Is
the any way i can fix it?

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