Hello,
I just acquired this car and all the power windows are not working.
The circuit breaker seems to be ok…I suspect that possibly it is the
main power window switch on the drivers side door….Does anyone have
any idea how to check, or has anyone had similar probs?
Any ideas/suggestions appreciated.
Chuck

I have a pair of nice cast aluminum valve covers for the ’74 Chev
truck 350 in my street rod.  Both have identical PCV holes so the valve
can be placed on either side depending on application.  On mine, the
driver side has a rubber grommet for the valve and the passenger side
has a rubber plug.  Both parts are too deteriorated to use.  Problem
is, my local Chevy dealer can order the grommet but they have no
listing for the plug.  I’ve looked for an after-market plug but I
haven’t found one that fits.  I really want to use the covers so I’m
thinking of putting a grommet and valve in each side and connecting
them to the intake with a "T" fitting.  Is there any reason I
should NOT do this?

Actually it doesn’t appear to be the pedal itself.
The truck is a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado pickup with a 5.3 liter V-8,
Automatic.
The accelerator sticks intermittently.  Sometimes right after I’ve started
and other times after a bit of time.  I’ve recently noticed, that it only
occurs when the truck is actually running.  If the pedal sticks and I can
stop and turn the truck off, the pedal is free again.  I’m guessing there
is some kind of "assist" (vacuum, electrical or maybe hydraulic) that is
actually sticking.  I’ve checked the cable and it seems to be free.  Of
course, when I want it to stick and check under the hood, it won’t.

Any ideas?

Hi…

Wonder if someone might confirm for me whether or
not the device – quite large – sticking into the
intake manifold nearest the air intake is the intake
air temperature sensor on an 85 Olds 3.8 ?

Confusing me is the fact that there are 4 terminals on
the connector, and Haynes says it’s just a thermistor…

If it helps any, unplugging it doesn’t set a code; but
does make the engine run at a very high idle…  perhaps
2000 rpm or so.  Plugging it back in makes the engine
slowly go down to normal idle speed.

And if it matters, the tampering I’m doing is looking for
a reason for incredibly bad mileage.  Lucky to get 10 or 12
miles per canadian gallon.

Thanks in advance, and take care.

Ken

I want to purchase a floor jack to work on the Buick Century. Where do
I place the jack under the car to lift the front or rear without causing
any damage.

I have the Haynes repair manual but it does not indicate where the
lifting area for a floor jack is.

Thanks

Robert

Since my earlier post I found that 4 wires were broken in the rubber
boot between the car and the drivers door…I have since repaired the
wires and all but the drivers window are now working…however my
question is how do I remove the power window motor?…I have ground off
the rivits that hold it in place but am stuck about how to proceed.
Any help appreciated…thank you
Chuck

http://www.oldsclub.ca/nats.html

My freon leaked out on 96 grand am with 3.1 engine.

Transmission fluid pipe was rubbing off against low pressure side
aluminum hose going into compressor, and made a hole in it…

How big a piece of pipe do i need(couldn’t see where closest connector
is but it looks long going to both low and high side), and what should i
worry about when replacing it(tips and tricks from experienced
mechanics)

Thanks in advance

AR

I have a 1991 park avenue 3.8 which has 226,000 miles on it but runs great
and always has. I was going through the drive up window of a fast food
place when the car started to run a little rough then just quit. It looks
to be getting fuel but but no spark. Any ideas on what to look for?

Hi everyone, my Grand Am has the 2.5L TBI.  For a while I have noticed
at certain times, the engine speed seemed to warble, (acceleration
would not remain steady) namely at around 35 MPH in drive.  Also, my
service engine soon light would come on if the engine temp is less than
100°F.

More recently, it had become worse.  My service light had come on more
freqeuntly–every time I stepped on the gas and the engine temp was
less than 160°F.  It backfired once or twice.  Finally, a couple of
days before it quit altogether, I noticed it missed a few times, and
once even tried to stall while driving.  The service light was on and
the engine temp was around 110°F.

I get a code 23 — faulty intake air temp sensor.  Yesterday, I tried
to start my car, but it wouldn’t.  I have thought of a few
possibilities, but I wanted to see what the general consensus thinks.
Any help is appreciated.