I really would like to be able to have my car door open and listen to my CD
player without that damned "BEEP" "BEEP" "BEEP" screwing up my listening
pleasure. This must be a bitch with many people.  Well, if someone would
please tell me what to go after in this "2001 Buick Century" I’d be much
obliged.  I do pretty well at reading various electrical and electronic
diagrams. If I could break the wire feeding this thing, I would but a dash
mounted switch on it.  I just need to know the wires color code is, and the
best place to access it.  
Thanks
Rusty
im…@lycos.com

I really would like to be able to have my car door open and listen to my CD
player
without that damned "BEEP" "BEEP" "BEEP" screwing up my listening pleasure.
This must be a bitch with many people.  Well, if someone would please tell me
what to go after in this "2001 Buick Century" I’d be much obliged.  I do
pretty well
at reading various electrical and electronic diagrams. If I could break the
wire feeding
this thing, I would but a dash mounted switch on it.  I just need to know the
wires color
code is, and the best place to access it.  
Thanks
Rusty
im…@lycos.com

Anybody know who’s manufacturing the oil filters for ACDelco in Canada?

Just curious…

I apologize for posting off-topic, however, it does relate to cars. This is
an amazing police chase! Make sure that your sound is on when you go to this
news link:

http://kimmershow.com/SupportFiles/Scripts/FileTamer.asp?FileID=1357

Ok, Need some help. This car has a shudder at highway speeds, more
noticeable when going up hill. Using the Tech 2, I can command the TCC on,
and some of the time it will shudder, ( slip speed between 100-200 RPM, Duty
cycle at 0%), sometimes pwm at 3-8% and 0-15RPM slip- no shudder. Either
way, during uphill driving, I can command TCC off and it stops. I think the
problem is in the transaxle, but part of me suspects the PCM ( knowing that
they had problems). Has this happened to anyone? TIA. Cam

Ok, I hate the 2.8.  My Jimmy is a 4wd and the 2.8 just does not have the
power I need out of it.  I have been told that I can put a 350 instead.
But I’m not sure what I need to do that.  Is there a kit?  Will the
original trany work?  what about my 4wd?  Any answers or direction to find
these answers would rock.  Thanks in advance.

Hi All:

I’m looking for the protocol used by the GM TECH 1 to scan the
Delco VI ABS system for trouble codes. Any help would be
appreciated. TIA

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Hello there. A few months ago, I posted a message asking for help with
my 92 Bonneville SE… it was losing power (alternating between
accelerating and not, but only when hot, and only under heavy
acceleration.) Anyway, I did a few more diagnostic tests…. turns out
the wires I had in there were burned to a crisp (white and charred.)
They were only a couple thousand miles old, but they were cheap. I
replaced them with a set of Bosch wires — those worked fine for a
while, but the problem returned, though it’s nowhere near as severe as
it was before.

But it’s the same situation — under load, after the engine is very
hot, when I try to accelerate heavily, the engine misfires, or
backfires, or whatever it does, just gives no acceleration except in
intermittent bursts.

I’ve tried to see if there is a particular cylinder causing the
problem by disconnecting the spark plug wires… they keep arcing to
the body, the coil module, or whatever else is closest to the end of
the wire.

I got a vacuum gauge and replaced all my vacuum hoses — they were
glazed and cracked. Same vacuum gauge tells me there’s no exhaust
restriction… and it holds steady at idle and under constant
acceleration.

I can feel some air moving behind the engine block, even when the fans
are off. And when I depress the accelerator mechanism, I feel more air
flow by. I verified this with a piece of tissue paper. I used a
mirror, however, and I can’t find any holes (though there are plenty
of connections rusted to hell and surrounded with rings of metal.) A
few months ago, the car was giving me a lean engine code too… but
that went away after a while.

On the other hand, I don’t hear the "click-click-click" noise that
should be characteristic of an exhaust leak — at least not at idle.
At higher RPMs I’ll hear something in time with the engine, and it
does get louder as the RPMS go up (at some RPM ranges, the engine
noise drowns out the noise… at others, the noise is audible.) I
can’t verify if it’s an exhaust leak without seeing the actual hole,
though, can I?

How can I find exactly where the exhaust is? I’ve tried partially
blocking the exhaust, spraying a little water in the throttle body…
nothing.

thanks!

Could someone please tell me whether or not there is a manual methodology
for getting a power window up that either has a bad motor or switch? My
stepson’s power window on the driver’s side of his 1995 Pontiac Firebird
Formula is hosed. He doesn’t have insurance or tags on his car yet–because
he can’t start driving it for 3 more months when he’ll turn 16.

His car didn’t have an owner’s manual when the wife and I bought it for him
last month. I looked at the fuse box lid’s markings this evening and didn’t
see a label pertaining to a fuse/relay for the power window(s). With this
said, my next two guesses would be that either there is a faulty switch for
this window or the electric motor has gone bad. Do any of you guys have a
ballpark price for a power window switch or motor for the 1995 Pontiac
Firebird? Are they a pain to install?

Thanks in advance!

V.H.

89 caddy, ran ok before, but now it sputters intermittently and power is way
down after running some injector cleaner in a full tank of gas. Sometimes
it’s running good and others it starts to run horribly. It barely stays
running at idle when running bad.

Could it be something simple like clogged fuel filter or did I screw up
something big time? I can’t even find the fuel filter. Anyone have a hint as
to where it is?

thanks guys