I have a 91 Grand Am w/ 2.5L automatic.
I had to replace the alternator and belt about a year or so ago.
Within a week it threw the belt.
I bought a more reliable brand of belt and it lasted a few months and
threw it too.
I bought another belt and replaced the alt. again but I looked at it a
little while ago and the belt is chewed up. Most of the "ribs" are gone.
Alot of rubber dust on the bracket from the belt.

What is causing the belts not to last?

The pulleys seem to be lined up properly.
The belt tension seems to be ok. I have had several "shadetree
mechanics" look at it and agree the tension is ok.
It squeals a little bit at an idle but when the a/c is turned on I hear
a bad squeal for about 5 to 10 seconds at an idle.
I have checked the a/c belt and it looks fine. Tension is ok on it too.
The a/c and the alt. belt are on different pulleys.

I cant find anything that looks like it could cause a problem….
HELP!!

Thanks
Chuck

http://members.xoom.com/jcmsr Personal Page still under construction
http://members.xoom.com/jcmsr/dfw.htm DFW Webring
http://members.xoom.com/jcmsr/tmwr.htm Texas Motorsports Web Ring

Help! My car is a 1986 Pontiac Boniville v6

The car was running fine then it just stops running.
After much trying I did get it to start, The engine ran fine as long as I
keep my foot on the gas, but a few seconds after taking my foot off the gas
it stops running.

 Now it will crank, but want start. I checked and replaced the (distributor,
Modula, cap, coil,) I got a faint spark I don’t know why, the crank is
strong, it has a new fully charged battery.

  If some one out their whose had an experience like this, I would
appreciate your help.

Thank you
TL
tll…@hotmail.com

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                     I have an 1992 olds silhoutte with the 3800 engine
                    when its at least 85 degrees out….the car will run
                    fine for about 10-15 minutes with the engine light
                    blinking intermitently then it will just completly
                    stop you just coast to the side of the road…it
                    will
                    not start for about 10 minutes then run fine for
                    another 10-15
                    mintes the hotter it is outside the shorter  time it
                    takes to act
                    up!!
                    ALWAYS code 17….even cleared the codes once to be
                    sure..
                    changed ignition module no help…………any
                    advice would be
                    apprec.. thankx frank

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does any one know if the S10 truck or Blazer is going to have a body change
this year

Does anyone know of a good source for parts of the 73 thru 78 GMC
motorhomes?  Heard that the (front wheel drive) engine/tranny combo
can be changed with 68 thru 78 Riviera, Tornado, or El Dorado. I know
mine has a Olds 455, but isn’t the caddy engine a 502, and isn’t it a
403 in the Riv? Really would like to swap in the caddy & its tranny,
but is/was fuel injection on any of these engines (Olds, Buick, or
Caddy?
Post your responses here … I get all together too much email as it,
and most is pure spam.

The company that makes this crap contacted me personally and told me to
return it for a full refund.  Sounds like an admission of guilt to me!

I changed the oil and oil filter on my ’94 Saturn
about one month ago, and I have just noticed that
the car seems to be leaking oil.  Could the cause
of the leak be as simple as me not tightening the
filter or oil pan bolt enough?  Or would it be
something more complicated?  Any help would be
appreciated.

Thanks,
Rohit

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For Sale!! Reconditioned late model bumper covers.

You need parts? Maybe we can help.

July 5, 1999

Beginning in model year 2000,  1/2 ton Chevy Suburbans, pickups, and
Tahoes will have a Hydro-Boost power brake unit like the 3/4 tons now
have, instead of a vacuum-powered booster.  HB is a much stronger and
quicker-acting booster, but is also more expensive to install and
maintain.  It’s my opinion that the only reason Chevy would make a more
expensive piece "stock" is to address the public’s complaints about the
pre-2000 brakes.

Unfortunately, there are about a million ’99 and earlier trucks with
vacuum-powered boosters, and the drivers of a fair percentage of those
trucks feel that the vacuum booster sometimes doesn’t give them all the
assist they need.  

Those drivers should replace their vacuum boosters with Hydro-Boost.
Some time ago I wrote a paper which  explains why and tells how to do
it.   The paper also applies to 3/4 tons, except the later ones (since
mid 90′s) that came stock with Hydro-Boost.

Now I have just updated that paper.  I distributed copies of the earlier
edition in April. If anyone who received it then is still working on his
or her brakes, I recommend reading the updated edition.  Just email me
and I will email it to you.  I will also be happy to send a copy to
anyone else who wants one, even those who do not have a brake problem
but are considering the purchase of a Chevy truck and want to know more
about the brakes before they buy.

There is no charge for the paper.  I will not try sell you anything now
or later.  I will not sell or give your address to anyone.

Remove anti spam A’s from my email address.
JimL      
AAApapeles…@earthlink.net