I have a 98 Chev 4×4 ext cab with 8,000 miles. The material on the
sides of the seat (cloth seats with vynil sides) where the "seat
forward" lever is has split due to the travel of the lever. Has anyone
else had this problem? I haven’t approached the dealer yet. I’m hoping
it’s under warranty.

T. Chenard
Ottawa, Canada

Can anybody advice me where can I obtain quality spare parts for A/C
systems installed on GM pasenger cars an vans produced in 85′-99′?

Please mail me to tkr…@mailbox.riga.lv

Regards
Yuri

I’m looking to purchase a the tail light housing for
the left drivers side of a 1988 Buick Lesabre T-type…

Please email me if you would have this item or could direct me to some one who
might…

Email At Jy…@Hotmail.com

Thanks…

———–== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==———-
http://www.dejanews.com/       Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own    

Wish to purchase an 88 Chev P-30 Shop Manual.  This has the 454
carburated engine.  I will pay shipping.  Please respond by email.
—

                                        Jim Walker
                                        Northern Va.

I want some information on this car mod.94-96. good or bad Pleas
anyone???

Cheers :
Jan
E-Mail : thorv…@online.no

GM Tech,

I’m planning the rebuild of my ’93 S10 4.3 (W) engine.  Most parts are
readily available but when looking for camshaft & lifters I keep running
into a "balance or balancer shaft" issue.

Just what is the "balance shaft" and what is its purpose?

–
Cheers ,
Paul Drappo
Brandon, FL

I have an S-15 Jimmy, 1994 model.  Since I got it this past summer there
has been a humming or growling noise only while in motion.  I had a
mechanic ride and listen to the noise.  He thought it might be the
bearings on the right-rear half-shaft, pulled it, no problems found.
Could this be my front wheel bearings?  If so are they easy to replace?
It is a 4X4, do I just have to replace the hub assembly?  If it helps
any there is also a scraping noise when making left-hand turns, could
these be related?  The scraping noise has only been noticeable in the
last few days.  I know nothing but the wheels are touching the ground
when the noise occurs.

hi there!

another ‘situation’ with my car…

i bought my car (84 chevy caprice wagon) with an autometer ampere-meter
installed, this thing is supposed to read up to 60 amperes.
the alternator on the car should put out a maximum of 63amps. as autometer
stated (i asked them) the ammeter should have a capacity of at least 10 amps
more than the alternator can produce. This is obviously not the case here :/

So i think the ammeter was fucked by the alternator, because the meter
always showed a mere +30 amps max and did never ever showed any ‘negative’
amps, although it was wired correctly.

so i’ve taken it off now and this is were my question starts:

i’ve reconnected the the charging system to its ‘original’ state (not quite,
took a larger diameter cable from alt to bat) and now the lights go dim at
idle. As dim as  i remember them beeing with the ammeter installed. they go
a LOT brighter when you rev the engine up a bit, as bright as they were
never before.

all lights in the car go a bit darker for a moment when i switch the turn
signals on or press the brake pedal or turn on the blower and all that, hope
you know what i mean, they don’t stay that bit darker they just flicker.

so is that normal with a ’84 GM 63amp alternator? if not, what’s possibly
wrong with it?

THANKS!

BTW the reason i decided to take the gauge out was the new battery failed
several times this winter. its warmer now and i can’t tell if it would
continue doing so now.
—
The Chevrolet Caprice Site.   http://www.online.de/home/colorchanger/

I just bought a 1996 Grand Prix GTP and I’m looking to really beef it up.
What should I do to it?  I’m planning on buying a K&N air filter and
possibly upgrading the exhaust.  Any good suggestions what to get and where
to get them?  Thanks!

Guy

[

Idle.txt < 1K ]

I am still searching for a problem with rough idle.

I might have found a short in the harness system of my 1989 Silverado.
This would be the harness wire going to the EGR idle selenoid valve.
When I check the voltage on this, I get no voltage at all. Furthermore,
there is no resistance coming out of this wire.

Now I don’t know if this is normal, or the engine has to warm up to a
certain temprature for a signal to be sent to this valve. But if this is
the case, this would probably be giving the the wrong signal the EGR
valve which would make the engine run poorly.

Any information would be appreciated.
thanks,
Martin Brewer